gay tour to Mount Popa
Popa Taungkalat temple atop a volcanic cone

A Day Trip to Mount Popa

After touring the dusty, hot and arid plain of Bagan, it is a welcome relief to drive up into the cool green surrounds of this extinct volcano. Mt Popa is the center of animist worship in Myanmar, a fascinating collection of shrines in a lush jungle setting.

Set out in the morning on the leisurely one-and-a-half-hour drive to Mount Popa, 50 kilometers southeast of Bagan. On the way, stop at one of the primitive roadside mills, where you may watch docile buffalo slowly circumnavigating the central stone, grinding palm seed into oil.

As you continue your drive, Mount Popa slowly rises into view. It is in fact an extinct volcano. At its foot is a magnificent rocky outcrop, a table mountain topped with shimmering gold stupas - this is the Popa Taungkalat. famously confused with Mount Popa itself.

The Popa Taungkalat is the favored home of 37 Burmese "nats" (aminist spirit entities), statues of which can be found at its base. For centuries newly-crowned kings of central Burma made pilgrimages here to seek the nats' prognosis on the future of their reigns. Transgender spirit mediums gather here each year for spectacular nat-pwe (nat festival) celebrations where they become possessed by these powerful spirit deities.

You arrive at the foot of the Taungkalat, remove your shoes and socks, and begin the half-hour climb to the summit. The walkway winds around the outcrop, at first gradual but then steep. It is covered to protect you from the direct sunlight. The views from the summit are quite spectacular.

Descend at your own pace to find your car waiting to take you to lunch. You have a choice between trying some Bamar dishes in local restaurants at the foot of the Taungkalat, or having a Burmese or European lunch at the Mount Popa Resort nearby. Whether you decide to lunch there or not, your guide will take you to see the resort, a five-star eco-friendly soft adventure hotel nestling in the side of the mountain. It is surrounded by thick jungle teeming with natural springs,  butterflies, monkeys, medicinal herbs and exotic flowers.

Return to Bagan mid-afternoon.

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Photo: Jack Tegart