Neglected by the communists for decades and overlooked by the rushing hordes of group tours, the colorful courtyards of Beijing's FORGOTTEN TEMPLES are surprises awaiting rediscovery. In preparation for hosting the Olympics, many of these fascinating shrines are finally getting overdue refurbishment. More important, they are becoming living temples again -- home to both monks and worshippers who are now free to revive traditional spirit ritual.
Take a half day (or longer) to visit some of Beijing's overlooked
sanctuaries:
Fantastical Dongyue Si Temple is the residence of the divine ruler of
supernatural China, the God of Mount Taishan. Befitting this celestial
throne hall, Dongyue Si is also host to the 76 departments and 18 layers of
hell where young and old, rich and poor are judged on their deeds. Do you
love to gossip? Do you fudge your tax return? Do you covet your neighbor's
Mercedes Benz? Here you will see lurid life-size depictions of the colorful
punishments awaiting all who indulge their passions and cravings. There is
also a lovely museum on the premises as well as a courtyard full of carved
imperial stone tablets.
Baiyun Guan, the White Cloud Temple was established in the mid-15th
century by Emperor Yingzong of the Ming Dynasty. It is home to the 3-eyed
Taoist protector deity, a do-gooder who maintains kindness on Earth and
banishes evil with his whip. Here, sandlewood-scented inner sanctums are
tended by monks and incense-bearing worshippers make the rounds of dozens of
pavilions dedicated to a pantheon of compassionate celestials.
Fayuan Si, the Source of Law Temple is a Buddhist educational
compound bustling with young monks who are apparently ignoring its overgrown
gardens. This living temple conveys both the years of official religious
suppression and the recent relaxation of attitudes towards traditional
Chinese beliefs. While not a picture-postcard attraction, poking around this
temple offers insight into contemporary Beijing life.
Nearby the Lama Temple is the Kong Miao, China's second largest
Confucian temple, built by the grandson of Kublai Khan in the early 14th
century.
Guangji Si, the Universal Rescue Temple, is the headquarters of the
Chinese Buddhist association and houses some excellent Buddhist sculptures.
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