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Arrive on an early morning flight (or arrive a day earlier and spend an extra night) and follow your personal guide through the south gate of Angkor Thom, a city-fortress of perfect proportions designed at the height of Angkor's artistic daring. The jewel of this immense collection of temples and palaces is The Bayon, with its towering stone faces. Beyond are the Terrace of the Leper King and the Terrace of the Elephants. The remainder of the day is devoted to Angkor Wat (Angkor Temple), epicenter of an empire that once stretched to present-day Burma. Centered within a mile-square moat, it is probably the largest religious monument ever built. The portico still resonates with visions of saffron-robed monks and muscled artisans carving a mile of stone reliefs depicting the Ramayana epic and the military conquests of the god-kings who built Angkor. If you like, climb the steep steps to the very zenith of the temple for a glorious view of the sunset.
Continue your adventure after a leisurely breakfast. Today's program is relaxed so you will be in top form for your motorbike adventure beginning tomorrow. Our guides are skilled at avoiding bus tour groups. You will surely see busloads of tourists being herded about and will appreciate having a private guide all to yourself as you wander through the ficus root-engulfed temple of Ta Phrom, built to house the divine image of the Queen Mother. In the afternoon, visit Banteay Srei, the "Temple of Women," only recently opened to visitors. Rediscovered in 1914, this jewel-like temple is the most distant from Angkor Wat and is unique in many respects. While most of Angkor 's temples are of massive proportions, Banteay Srei is intimate and constructed on a human scale. Its profuse and gloriously-ornate architectural details, mythical beasts with human heads, are exceptionally well preserved.
Depart Siem Reap early this morning by motorbike. Today you have a long ride along country simple roads towards the mighty Mekong. The first stop of the day is Kampong Kdei to see an ancient Khmer Empire bridge. Afterwards, continue to Kampong Thom to experience the pre-Angkor temple complex of Sambor Prei Kuk. If you like, you can make a stop to buy a bag of freshly-fried tarantulas from the local ladies who proffer plates piled high with these popular treats. Tasting something like soft shell crab, the locals swear by their medicinal powers to cure, among other things, car sickness. The remote Sambor Prei Kuk complex was once a monumental city that inspired later rulers to create Angkor. Brick stupas and sandstone doors and lintels emerge from the forest as you travel along pleasant jungle paths. This peaceful Eden is eerily pockmarked by enormous craters from battles with the Khmer Rouge. Remnants of gigantic yoni pedestals hint at the scale of looted phallic pillars that once were bathed in lustral waters by Hindu faithful. The brick carving, though weathered, is superb and unusual, a clear-stepping stone to development of Angkor's amazing stone galleries. The last stretch of the day leads, through huge rubber plantations to Kampong Cham. Here on the edge of the Mekong we will spend two nights.
Take it easy today in Kampong Cham. Cambodia's third largest town has barely been discovered by tourists. We begin the day at Nokor temple, a contemporary Pagoda built in the midst of an eleventh century Khmer ruin. They seem "married" in such a way that it is not clear where one begins and the other ends. Next, we visit two nearby hills; Phnom Bro, the "mountain of man," and Phnom Srey, the "mountain of the woman." The latter is reached by ascending 308 steps. You will be rewarded with an astonishing view of the Mekong at the top. Kampong Cham got its name from the ancient Cham people who settled Cambodia and parts of Vietnam before the Khmer. After a lunch with a local family we drive via a long Bamboo bridge or with the Ferry to Koh Soktine were we find some Cham communities living in stilt houses. Nowadays they live as Muslims and practice the craft of silk weaving. The friendly locals make a stroll around the island a unique experience. You will have time to look around on your own. You might want to make a stop at Wat Maha Leap, which is perhaps the only remaining wooden Buddhist temple in Cambodia. Its huge, gilded columns and painted ceiling seem oddly out of place here. Another oddity is a distinctly Moorish tower built by the French on the opposite side of the river to keep an eye on boat traffic. There are also some grizzly reminders of the Khmer Rouge. Later in the day, call in at one of the town's several riverside taverns. The beer tastes especially good in towns like Kampong Cham.
Drive along the shores of the Mekong to the colonial town of Kratie with stops to visit villages and and points of interest and opportunities to meet the locals. Kratie (which is pronounced "krachey") is a charming little riverside town with tree-lined streets bursting with colonial architecture that was somehow spared the blanket bombings of the area during the "American War." Take some time to explore. There are lovely Khmer-style homes, interesting temples, and plenty of street-food to snack on. Two nights in Kratie.
We spend today in and around Kratie. In the morning we head upstream and take a boat to search for the highly-endangered Irrawaddy freshwater dolphins. The population has dwindled to only around eighty of these mammals so seeing one or more is a special experience. Back on shore our next stop is the 100-column pagoda, built in 1806. Also called Wat Sar Sar it was built on the site of a long-gone royal palace. On the way back to Kratie we enjoy the sunset merging into the Mekong from a hilltop temple.
This morning you cross the Mekong on a ferry and return to Siem Reap by country roads where you are rewarded with splendid vistas. Arrive back in Siem Reap in the evening after traveling nine hundred kilometers over five days. Wash off the dust and celebrate with a pitcher of frosty Angkor Beer. You have one final night in your hotel in Siem Reap. (If you want someone else to do the driving on the final day you also have the option of returning to Siem Reap by pickup truck for $60.)
Free time until we deliver you to the airport for your departure flight.
There is plenty more to see and do in and Around Siem Reap including Overlooked Angkor, floating villages on the Tonle Sap, the River of 1000 Lingas, or experience an unforgettable scenic flight by helicopter. Trained, licensed guides are in short supply and should be arranged in advance.
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